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Day 35: Wentworth Falls & A Visit With Ryan


Kilometres: 186km

Diesel: 0

Drinks: $15

Ice: 0

This morning we had one last item to tick off our list, knowing we would make our way out of the mountains that afternoon. As we have on so many occasions throughout this trip, we arrived at Wentworth Falls carpark with only a few other cars and mini buses around. The driver of one bus was smoking a cigarette, not moments after Chris and I had noted how wonderful all of the ‘no smoking’ signs were and what a great rule it was to have in place. Without a second thought, Chris signalled for the man, who chatted loudly on his phone, to put the cigarette out. And…he did. Something that would have caused me all kinds of anxiety, Chris had done in an instant. Perfect.

We were informed by some more helpful signage that the track we intended to walk was closed due to a rock fall. Instead, we made up our own loop. We walked down to Conservation Hut, followed the Overcliff Track, then the Undercliff Track and made it back to the carpark. By this stage it was packed! Huge buses shouting ‘Contiki’ with bright pink writing were surrounded by more buses and yet more buses and cars. Determined to see what we came for, we made our way towards Wentworth Falls, with everyone else.

As we wandered down the hill we dreaded a fairy pool full of 50 Contiki Tour participants. Instead, we passed them on their way back up the hill. It was perfect timing. Not satisfied with a view from the top, we followed the path that would lead us further down the falls. And what a path it was! Forged 100 years ago and cut from the cliff itself. Each step had been chipped away with a chisel by men who dangled precariously over the edge of these infinite cliffs, all to make a track that tourists would be able to walk. It was an incredible feat. An incredibly steep feat. In fact, the steps were so steep in places that your bottom nearly touched previous stairs with each step you decended.

When we made it to the base, we took a refreshing dip under what looked to be a trickle of water. The 187m waterfall fell into a pool before coming over a small ledge to where we were swimming. This trickle though was heavy and thick. It thumped our heads and shoulders and the cold took your breath away. When we later saw a photo of the falls at full force, during a flood, we were blown away by the power nature generates. Refreshed, we climbed back up these incredible steps. Crawling was probably a better description as our hands touched the steps above us as we walked. And who did we pass on the way? Yet another Contiki Tour. We had just missed them. Again. We had utilised the perfect window and now we could get out of there.

On our way into the mountains a few days ago, we had spotted a rest stop with a free shower. So now, knowing we were meeting up with some old friends, we thought it time to freshen up. We patiently waited our turn and slipped into the shower in between other vandwellers. Once fresh, and full from a quick lunch we cruised down through the hills to Glenbrook.

We arrived at 2773 Cafe just in time to spot Ryan and Elise climb from their car. I watched as Ryan, so casually, lifted a baby from the back seat and rested it over his shoulder. So naturally, he bopped up and down, dribble towel placed perfectly. It was pretty magic to see such an old friend in such a new space.

Ryan and I were pretty close in our early high-school years. He was the friend I chatted to all day at school then got home and called, on the landline of course, and chatted for hours longer. I dialled his number so many times, I still remember it to this day. We sat down with him, his lovely wife and their three beautiful children and talked. And it was just as easy 12 years later as it was back then. After covering everything from the goings on of home, our careers and life lessons learned, it was time to hit the road. I said goodbye to my friend and the life he has created for himself and crossed my fingers it wouldn’t be so long between drinks this time around.

We checked Google Maps as we considered the best way to get back to the coast. Our time in the hills had come to an end for now and the salty sea monster life was calling. We were given two routes to choose from, as we so often have on this journey. Today, like most days, we took the one less travelled by, just as Frost would have. Choosing to give the outskirts of Sydney a miss, along with its peak hour traffic, we headed for the bush and a road that wound its way along narrow ridge lines and through paddocks and rolling hills.

I found a place on our beloved WikiCamps and, because there weren’t too many options on this road, we thought we’d stop there to make dinner. It was around 7pm by the time we rolled in and the space that welcomed us was too hard to leave. We would stay the night. A large cafe with tables and umbrellas sat just beyond a wide gravel and grass parking area. Bushland surrounded us and kangaroos hopped happily by. What a spot to spend the night. Sometimes the best ones come from having no plan at all.

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